Planting Hyacinth Bulbs in Six Easy Steps

Step 1: Clear the area in your flower bed where you are planning on planting your bulbs. Make sure to remove any mulch, sticks, or grass and other debris. This will allow the garden planter to easily penetrate the soil. Make enough room for your flowers to grow. Hyacinth bulbs should be spaced roughly four to six inches apart and 6″ deep. Group flowers in clusters to get a more dramatic effect from the early spring blooms.

Step 2: Using the bulb hound garden planter or a bulb hand planter, create holes deep enough to meet the depth on the planting guide. For Hyacinth bulbs the recommended dept is 6 inches.

Step 3: Place the soil in a container such as a bucket or wheelbarrow to use later.

NOTE: If the soil is hard or contains a great deal of clay, you may want to consider mixing in a bag of top soil from your local stores like Home Depot or Meijer. You can also add in Peat Moss to break up the soil and help to retain water.

Step 4: Place one Hyacinth bulb in each hole pointed end up.

NOTE: You can tell the flowers will be a different color based on the color of the bulb. Plant in groups or separate to create beautiful clusters.

Step 5: Cover with soil and lightly pack over the bulbs.

Step 6: Water your bulbs and cover with mulch.

NOTE: You can also apply a fertilizer specially formulated for bulbs to promote strong blooms in the spring. Using a specific bulb fertilizer such as HOLLAND Bulb Booster Fertilizer 9-9-6 available at Home Depot or other local garden supply stores will help your plants survive harsh winters and produce beautiful blooms in the spring.

Hyacinths are a beautiful addition to your early spring garden. The plants require very little maintenance and can be placed nearly anywhere in your yard. You can also use Hyacinths in patio pots, window boxes, or in springtime flower arrangements.

Do you have any gardening tips for our readers? Feel free to post questions or comments.

How to Identify Crabgrass

There are over 300 species of crabgrass (Digitaria) that can be found throughout the world. The species of crabgrass I have the most experience getting rid of are the Hairy Crabgrass (Sanguinalis) and the Smooth Crabgrass (Ischaemum) mainly found in North America. Crabgrass has a long germination period and to make matters worse crabgrass spreads by seed and rooting from the joints called culm nodes which lie on top of the soil. Another example (maybe not the best example, but easy to relate too) of this type of growth is how the everbearing strawberry grows/spreads by off shoots. Crabgrass seeds have been known to be viable up to 3 years in the soil. Some sources have also reported crabgrass producing up to 150,000 seeds.

How to Get Rid of Crabgrass

I wish there was a quick and simple way to get rid of crabgrass. Given the seeds can last up to three years and the volume of seeds crabgrass produces it takes awhile to get it under control. The key word here is “under control”.

Step 1: Start off your lawn growing season with a turf builder fertilizer with a crabgrass preventer. This will help prevent a majority of crabgrass growth before it happens. For an added extra measure apply this once yourself (in granular form) and then have a company like Scotts or TruGreen apply their liquid crabgrass preventer.

Step 2: For the small patches of crabgrass that pop up around your yard try sprays that target only crabgrass. I like to use Ortho Weed B Gon Max Plus Crabgrass Control which is a weed preventer including crab grass that is formulated not to kill your lawn.

Step 3: During the height of the crabgrass season don’t edge around your sidewalk and driveway as well as weed-eat around your gardens. This causes the ground to be void of grass growth which crabgrass will be the first to take this empty space over.

Step 4: Let your grass grow longer during the crabgrass season. A thicker and longer lawn will help to suffocate any other growth including crabgrass.

Step 5: Water your lawn so that is doesn’t dry out and die.

Step 6: If you have thinning grass or any bare spots in your lawn be sure to over seed those areas. This will help to crowed out possible crabgrass growth.

Step 7: Spread a granulated turf builder with crabgrass prevention using a broadcast or drop spreader at the end of the growing season. This will help the spread of crabgrass before the start of the growing season and will lessen the burden if you forget to fertilize for the next year.

Step 8: Repeat and be aggressive for the next 3 to 4 years. Remember crabgrass seeds can remain viable for around 3 years.

Crabgrass can be tough to get rid of especially if you have neighbors who don’t take as much time as you to make their lawns look nice. It’s not a losing battle, but it’s a battle that takes a little time to win. Give yourself the extra boost by using the steps above as well as trying different lawn techniques like, aerating, dethatching, grub kill, etc.

What are some of your tips and tricks for winning the war against crabgrass? Our readers would like to know!

What You Will Need

• Twine
• Scissors
• Shovel
• Extra Soil
• Water

Transplanting a Balloon Flower

Step 1: Clear the area at the base of the flower.

Step 2: Gently tie the stems of the Balloon Flowers together to minimize damage during transplanting.

Step 3: Insert a shovel about  6 inches from the base of the plant going straight down to avoid root damage.

Step 4: With the shovel inserted in the ground, gently lift up to loosen the roots from the soil keeping the root ball intact.

Step 5: Lift the root ball using your hands.

Step 6: Take the plant to the new location for transplanting.

Step 7: Clear a new area and dig a hole large enough for the root ball to easily fit in.

Step 8: Place the plant in the new hole.

Step 9: Secure the plant with extra soil and cut off string.

Step 10: Water the soil thoroughly.

NOTE: During warmer times of the season, be sure to water your Balloon Flowers regularly.

Transplanting needs to occur during the early part of the growing season while roots are still searching for water. If you choose to transplant in the middle of the summer, be sure to provide your plant with more water than typical until it is growing strong again in its new location.

Do you have any gardening tips or questions? Feel free to comment below.

The following will provide a step-by-step how to on planting a perennial Alpine Dianthus Fire Star.

Planting a Dianthus

Step 1: Determine a good location in your garden providing full sun for the Alpine Dianthus.

Step 2: Clear away any debris or grass in the area for planting.

Step 3: Dig a hole slightly larger than the current plant base and about 3 inches deeper.

Step 4: Remove the Dianthus from the plastic pot by gathering the foliage of the entire plant in your hands near the root ball.

Step 5: Carefully loosen the roots splitting the bottom of the root ball to promote good root dispersion in the ground.

NOTE: Make the root ball do the splits in the hole to promote root growth.

Step 6: Gently place the root ball of the Dianthus in the hole separating the base of the roots.

Step 7: Generously water the plant and allow the ground to dry between watering.

Step 8: Secure the Dianthus with the dirt previously removed from the hole filling in all empty space.

Dianthus grow to a height of about 8 inches making it a great plant to use in the foreground of most flower beds.  The flowers come in many different colors from light pinks to dark reds, white, and purples. Adding a splash of color for the entire summer is easy with a perennial Dianthus. Keep the plant blooming by trimming away or deadheading spent flowers.

Do you have any gardening suggestions? What is your favorite variety or color of Dianthus? Feel free to post comments and questions below.

Many varieties are sold locally at garden supply stores, Home Depot, Walmart, or online stores like Gurneys. Since the plant reproduces so well, it can be shared with other gardeners quite easily. Transplanting should be accomplished in early or late summer before the threat of first frost to allow the roots to take hold.

Propagation of Sempervivum

The longer the “Hens and Chicks” are in a location the larger the coverage area. The plants reproduce by seeds after the plant blooms and vegetatively by offsetting around the base of the rosette. This creates the hens and chicks effect. As the plant matures, more chicks are produced and each develops it’s own root system and becomes independent of the parent plant. Once the root structure has grown, the chicks can be separated from the parent plant and transplanted to new locations in your garden. The following will provide instructions for transplanting a section of “Hens and Chicks” from a mature plant.

Transplanting “Hens and Chicks”

Step 1: Find a location in full sun and clear away any debris or vegetation.

Step 2: Turn over the soil to loosen and allow the roots of the Sempervivum to take hold after transplanting.

Step 3: Using a shovel, carefully remove a clump of the rosettes for transplanting.

Step 4: Place rosettes in loosened soil and firmly pack and cover the roots.

Step 5: Water the Sempervivum generously.

The plants should feel right at home in the new location. During dry seasons, water the plants every few days until the roots are secure in the ground (about 7-10 days). Transplanting this type of ground cover is easy and can be very successful. Depending on how much sun the plant receives daily will produce a different look to the succulent and eventually the plant may look slightly different than the parent rosettes.

Planting a Coreopsis

Step 1: Determine a good location in your garden providing full sun for the Coreopsis.

Step 2: Clear away any debris or grass in the area for planting.

Step 3: Dig a hole slightly larger than the current plant base and about 3 inches deeper.

Step 4: Remove the Coreopsis from the plastic pot by holding the entire plant near the root ball.

Step 5: Carefully loosen the roots splitting the bottom of the root ball to promote good root dispersion in the ground.

Step 6: Gently place the root ball of the Coreopsis in the hole separating the base of the roots.

NOTE: Make the root ball do the splits in the hole to promote root growth.

Step 7: Secure the Coreopsis with the dirt previously removed from the hole filling in all empty space.

Step 8: Generously water the plant and once a week during dry weather.

To keep the Coreopsis blooming all summer, simply deadhead any spent flowers weekly. The plant will continuously provide new blooms well into September or early October.

Do you have any questions or concerns about your Coreopsis? How have you used this plant in a creative garden? Feel free to post comments or questions below.

Spring has sprung! It is such a wonderful time of year. Everything is in bloom–the trees, flowers, and bushes, the birds are singing, and it is time again to plant the wonderful annuals that will provide months of color in the flowerbeds. The following will provide a brief example of how to plant annuals, although each plant has specifics on planting (distance/spacing, sun/shade, and watering) that should be followed to ensure proper room for growth, this will provide the basic how to on planting.

Picking the Right Flower

The first step to planting flowers is to find the right variety to plant in your location. Understanding how much sun the plants will receive throughout the day is a key element to choosing the right flower. If you do not own a green house of your own, or do not have time to sow seeds, the best alternative is to buy starter packs from your local store. Before purchasing plants, estimate shade (less than one hour of direct sun light if any), partial shade (at least 4 hours without direct sunlight), and full sun for your area then head off to the local greenhouse or garden store to find the right flower. Do-it-your-self stores such as Lowes, Home Depot or Menards provide quality plants at lower prices. Greenhouses and specialty stores will provide higher quality plants and also staff members that can go the extra mile to ensure you are choosing the right variety for your location. For this example we have chosen Pansies and are planting them in a partially shaded area of the garden. This plant thrives in cooler temperatures, so full sun in mid-July would not do the plant very much justice!

Planting Pansies and other Annuals

NOTE: Many annuals are not frost tolerant. Wait until the threat of the last frost for your area has passed before planting, or be prepared to cover your plants as needed if the temperatures drop during the night.
Step 1: Clear the ground of any debris and weeds.

Step 2: Loosen the soil (about 6 inches deep) in the area for planting using a garden trowel or shovel.

Step 3: Dig several holes about 2.5 inches in diameter and about 6 inches apart.

NOTE: Pansies can stand a little crowding, but follow the directions on the plant tag or from the gardener staff member at the greenhouse for other plant varieties.

Step 4: Carefully remove each individual plant from the six-pack. This can easily be accomplished by ripping the plastic container as shown.

NOTE: The pansies shown here were purchased on discount at a local retailer. The plants can only last so long in the small containers before the roots overcome the small space. To save money, purchase plants on clearance or discount and take a few extra steps to ensure proper root formation.

Step 5: Separate the roots by gently splitting the bottom of the packed dirt. This will allow the roots to head in different directions to find what and nutrients allowing a greater chance of survival for the plant.

Step 6: Place the plant into the hole with the roots spread apart (similar to a person doing the splits).

NOTE: The dirt/root ball should be just below the level of the ground to prevent the plant stem from breaking.

Step 7: Water the roots of the flower directly prior to covering with soil (about 8 to 12 fluid ounces per plant).

Step 8: Cover the roots with the loose soil that was previously removed from the hole.

NOTE: Pack the dirt securely around the plant to ensure it is not uprooted by wind or rain.

Step 9: Continue with the rest of the plants and then lightly water the soil around the plants.

Step 10: Remove all flowers by cutting with scissors to allow the plants to establish a strong root system.

NOTE: Removing all the flowers as they wither will provide a longer blooming season for pansies. This prevents the plant from going to seed too quickly.

Pansies like moist soil, so water the soil deeply with each watering (one to two times per week depending on the natural weather patterns of your area). Provide a good layer of mulch or organic material around the plants to prevent weeds and to finish the look of your landscape project. Pansies, as well as other annuals, come in a variety of colors. Take the time to create a pattern or color scheme you will enjoy for the coming months.

Do you have planting tips or would you like to share a success story of your favorite variety? We would love to hear your how to. Feel free to post any questions or comments.

Most local green houses will offer plants early in the year for spring planting. Understanding the hardiness of a plant will provide you with an estimate on when you can plant. In many regions planting frost hardy plants can occur in late March or early April (about 6 weeks prior to the last frost in your area). The following are some common plants that are frost hardy (tolerate temperatures down to about 23° F) and can be planted earlier in the spring to encourage early blooms.

Annuals

• Alyssum
• Coreopsis
• Dusty Miller
• Larkspur
• Pansies
• Snapdragon
• Sweet Pea

Perennial Starts

• Carnation
• Creeping Phlox
• Hardy Hibiscus
• Sedum
• Snowcap Arabis
• Thyme
• Viola
• Yarrow

Vegetable and Herb Plants

• Asparagus
• Chives
• Onions
• Peas
• Potatoes
• Radish
• Strawberry

Once you decide on what plants to use in your landscaping, you can determine when to plant by using your planting region. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has a hardiness zone map showing the regions of the United States and the average annual minimum temperatures. These planting zones are often depicted on plant or flower information tags and provide the gardener with the proper planting time frame.

What are some of your favorite plants you like to plant in cold weather?

Crocuses are a small beautiful flower and one of the earliest signs of spring. Most varieties include purple hues, bright yellows, or soft white blooms and are considered a hardy perennial. Most species are surrounded by a small tuft of green foliage with the flower seemingly sprouting directly from the ground. Plan ahead to plant crocus bulbs in late autumn around the end of October through early December. The bulbs can be purchased in bulk from Home Depot, Meijer, or other local garden supply stores. The following will provide the basics on how to plant Crocus bulbs.

Planting Crocus Bulbs in Five Easy Steps

Step 1: As with any planting, clear the area in your planting site to access the soil. Clear away mulch, leaves, sticks, and other debris. This will allow the gardener easy access for penetrating the soil. You may need a small rake, shovel or garden spade, and a bulb planter.

Step 2: Using a small garden shovel or spade, create a trench 2 inches deep according to the depth indicated on the planting guide.

Step 3: Place the bulbs tips up in the trench spacing 2 inches apart.

NOTE: Because Crocuses look nice in larger bunches, you can plant them in a large circular hole in a semi-symmetric pattern to obtain a “patch” of Crocus in the spring. This example shows the bulbs being planted in a circle around a tree.

Step 4: Carefully cover the bulbs with loose soil and lightly pack over the bulbs.

Step 5: Fertilize the bulbs with a bulb bloom booster after planting to obtain quality growth in the spring and cover the area with mulch.

Crocuses will typically bloom in early spring often before the last frost has fallen. You may even see the blooms peek through a late snow if you live in a more northern location. Take care of the area where you have planted the bulbs and provide the flowers with a early spring boost with another round of the fertilizer. You can use a bloom booster for bulb flowers such as Perfectly Natural Bulb & Bloom Booster Fertilizer when you plant your bulbs and in the early spring to help promote bright colors and blooms. Bloom boosters can be purchased at Home Depot, Meijer, or other local garden supply stores.

Many stories tell the reason for the Poinsettia’s association with Christmas, but most commonly it is from a Mexican legend about a poor boy and girl who were unable to afford any gifts for the church to celebrate the birth of Christ. The children brought the flowers (weeds) to the church as an offering for Baby Jesus, although teased about their gift by other children they placed the flowers around the manger. The leaves turned from green to red and resembled a star. Then the manger was surrounded by beautiful red, star-shaped flowers. So now the flowers are a mainstay with Christmas traditions. Although beautiful, the Poinsettia is a tropical flower that requires special care in your home during the holidays to stay beautiful and fresh. Here are a few tips to keep your Poinsettia looking nice.

Taking care of your Poinsettia

Tip 1: When you bring your Poinsettia home place it in a nice sunny room in your house. Although the flower should not be placed in direct sunlight or it may burn itself out.

Tip 2: The Poinsettia is a tropical flower and is best suited for a warm climate. Maintain the temperature between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keeping the flower at this temperature will keep it in bloom as long as possible.

Tip 3: Avoid drafty areas such as near and entry/exit door way or near the attic or basement where cooler air may be entering your home. At night the temperature can be reduced to 60 degrees Fahrenheit, but maintain the warmer environment during the day.

Tip 4: Water the plant almost daily (or when the surface of the soil feels dry). When watering allow the water to soak through until it drains out the bottom. Remove any excess water and do not allow the plant to sit in water.

Tip 5: Homes are heated differently with electric, gas, or wood burning fireplaces. If your heat source creates a very dry feeling in your home make sure to check your Poinsettia everyday to see if it requires watering.

Poinsettias make a great addition for decorating your home for Christmas and Christmas parties. If you keep your Poinsettia alive all winter you can plant it in your flower bed in late spring after the threat of the last frost has passed. If not, enjoy your Poinsettia for Christmas and place it in your compost pile, yard waste only bin, or in the trash.

Do you have any tips on how to keep a Poinsettia fresh and beautiful? Feel free to post comments.